Lebanese designer weaves exotic look for seasonal show

PARIS: US designer Ralph Rucci gave a master class in the art of pure silhouettes Thursday with his haute couture collection for next winter, while Lebanon’s Elie Saab opted for glamour and glitz.

On the final day of a frenzied week of autumn-winter 2003-04 couture shows in the French capital, Rucci invited fashion editors and his well-heeled clientele to a Paris art gallery to view his understated, elegant creations.

Using a muted color palette of black, taupe, gray and chocolate brown, the New York-based designer unveiled a collection of elegant suits, impeccably cut sheath dresses that skimmed the body and refined coats in cashmere and sable.

A liquid black-sequined pajama top and bottoms under a wool coat with a similar lining oozed luxury, as did a supple brown ostrich leather coat, jean and tote bag ensemble.

Rucci likes to incorporate artwork, sometimes his own, into his designs. For next winter, he drew inspiration from abstract expressionist Cy Twombly, embroidering the back of a black coat in the style of the US artist’s work.

For evening, a black-and-white pinstriped ribbon skirt encircling the body in neat circles, or a bronze braided taffeta gown looked perfect for a night on the town in Manhattan.

Rucci is the first American to show couture in Paris since Mainbocher, who opened his Paris fashion house in 1929 and was also known for making evening wear geared toward high-class women with unlimited budgets.

If Rucci’s work is the epitome of Park Avenue chic, Saab designs gowns that come straight from The Arabian Nights ­ a swirl of gauzy chiffon, beguiling veils and glistening gold sequins. The Lebanese designer, who gained international fame when Halle Berry accepted her Best Actress Oscar last year in one of his creations, did not disappoint his admirers, sending out dozens of wispy, alluring gowns.

A turquoise silk chiffon dress with geometric patterns stitched in gold thread and encrusted with crystals, worn by top model Naomi Campbell, seemed well suited for the red carpet. Others, like a black lace mini dress with a bustier top and a matching embroidered frock coat, appeared more appropriate for the boudoir.

Saab, who this year became an invited member of the ultra-selective French fashion federation, wrapped up the show with five ethereal wedding gowns, the most striking in golden tulle and lace studded with Swarovski crystals.

The Italian duo of Antonio Grimaldi and Silvio Giardina, who like Saab were elected as official invitees of the Chambre syndicale this year, transformed an ornate salon in a posh Paris hotel into a land of fairy-tale princesses.

White, black, yellow, hot pink, peach, lilac ­ the models wore a rainbow of theatrical gowns dripping with lace, feathers and flounces. Scowling supermodel Omahyra Mota was their queen in fire-engine red. Pearls were the accessory of choice, whether in long strands draped across gowns, as earrings or ankle bracelets. ­ AFP

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